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What is the 2B
[Or, dietary tips for Sierras]

The Build Diary
['99 - Aug. '00]
[ Aug - Nov. '00]
[December '00]
[Early Jan '01]
[January '01]
[February '01]
[March '01]
[April '01]
[May '01]
[June '01]
[July '01]

The SVA
[Did my 2B pass?]

On The Road
[Whats it like then?]
[And now it's been improved!]

New for 2003
[Suspension Mods]

New for 2002
[Engine Mods]
[Fuel Filler]
[Custom Instuments]
[Rear Shocks]

Tricks & Tips
[including do as I say, not as I did!]

Major Problems
[Or how to talk to the Manufacturer]

So you think you've got problems?

Gallery
[Or,some necessary light relief!]

Wifes View
[Or, are you coming out of that garage....]

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About the Authors
[If you are really bored...]

The Build Diary... DC - During Car
How?

December 2000

Having looked at the front suspension problem for a while, I decided the only real option was to bend the top plate down to match the lower one. As I do not have access to acetyline welding equipment, I got a mobile welder to come and do the job. We had to cut the headlamp mounting brackets off to do this but otherwise this was a simple job. RHE, when phoned, offered to make up some angled spacers to compensate but I felt this was not entirely appropriate as the shaft needs to be clamped very firmly upright. Whilst MIG welding (and learning to MIG weld as I went) the headlamp brackets back on I decided to add some locating plates to the top of the lower wishbone to take the strain off of the 9mm end of the chrome shaft which would be stronger if it were made of paper.

Coming now to assemble the front suspension I found that the special 9mm nuts supplied by RHE did not fit the ends of the shafts. By this time I had just about had enough of this arrangement and decided to have 12mm studs made and threaded into the ends of the shafts in place of the 9mm. This is currently being carried out by a local light engineer (for local people!).

The Modified lower arm the edge of which has been ground back between 10 and 15mm in order to clear the brake disc, sorry about the naff paint, it will be rubbed down and done properly soon. Note that the two 8mm holes are now useless to locate the chrome shaft at this end.

After a small amount of cajoling, I finally persuaded said engineer to stop building his loft conversion/office and finish my shafts. I was pleased to find that he had done a good job and only charged me a fiver which was nice. Once again I started to assemble the front suspension. About this time RHE sent me some nicely turned chrome shaft locators which supposedly made all the previous unnecessary, however, given the different angles of the plates I don't really think that they are an improvement.

The new super strong, reliable, trustworthy, cheap 12mm stud on the end of the chrome shaft replacing the old 9mm stud. The insert is 30mm deep which is as far as it is worth going with a 12mm dia. stud. If you are using the locators, it may be worth turning the chamfer off the end of the shaft.

The next set of problems arose as I assembled the parts. Even when shortened as much as possible, the lower end of the chrome shaft is going to hit the inside of the wheel well before the bump stop intervenes, also the wheel rim fouls on the lower arm and spring. The latter can be sorted by spacing out the wheel from the hub and presumably I will have to limit the suspension travel to cure the former (I have no idea how much travel this is going to leave, probably about half an inch - supple compliant ride anyone?)(Please phone Sexy Susan on 0898 .....)

Two images showing the clearance problems between wheel and suspension components. Left, wheel rim to lower wishbone, and Right, chrome shaft end to rim with another 3" or so of travel to go.

Whilst no-doubt these problems can be overcome I have to wonder a)Why Robin Hood supply wheels with a completely inappropriate offset and b)If it wouldn't have been easier in the long run to saw off the fixed wishbones and put some proper wobbly ones on instead. (With hindsight, the offset problem is much worse on my Chassis than most others and is down to the poor jigging. The RHE wheels actually have an appropriate offset if the chassis is accurate. Most people seem to need a small spacer but not as much as me - April 2001)

And now the first in the series of improvements to the front suspension, 1) Hacksaw. 2) Series of swift cutting movements. 3) repeat until all inaccuracies have been purged.... Seriously, a kit now exists to convert the 2B to proper double wishbone suspension, see RHOCAR site for further details (address on links page - Ian)

Whilst I was wondering about the suspension, I decide to make a start on the exhaust cov^H^H^H silencer heat protector (what's wrong with cover - Ian), this is basically a sheet of metal wrapped around the silencer with holes drilled in, however it is important to a) mark the positions of the holes (please choose your own pretty pattern, I've gone for a nice William Morris design) b) Wrap the sheet around the silencer (The spacing is provided by the mystery coils of metal as noted on collection day, and no, I didn't get them!) c) Drill the holes. It is important to do it in this order as if you drill the holes first, the cover will bend in a series of angles around the holes.

This is your chance to participate in this website, simply think of a witty and amusing (downright dirty?) caption for this photo, send all entries to the e-mail address at the top the page, and you never know, Glenn might laugh*! Let's face it, I could do with a laugh building a kit like this.

*(Note, this is not guaranteed, we reserve the right to fail to laugh at any caption, all entries become property of Viking Web Works, by reading this statement you agree to the above twaddle, all rights reserved (Ours, not yours!).

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